There are some journeys which, in themselves, are pleasant and uneventful and yet memorable for curious reasons. Last week I had to go to Segovia in Spain for a spot of literary hobnobbing, tied in with some work, and because I had to take quite a lot of gear (most of it ‘just in case’ stuff) I decided to drive. The round trip is a little over a thousand kilometres – six hours in each direction – and the missus jumped at the chance of half a week in a mediaeval city on the sistema central rather than in the office. She’s funny like that. It also meant we could take turns with the driving, making the whole trip little more than a pleasant jaunt.
The outward journey was easy enough, crossing the eerily deserted border at Vilar Formoso/Fuentes de Oñoro and then via Cuidad Rodrigo onto the hot, dusty northern meseta under peerless blue skies. I love this country, though I suspect I would hate to live there: empty, endless brown and yellow plains with excellent and empty roads connecting the sudden, gloriously amazing sight of Salamanca with the rugged walled city of Ávila. We’d stopped off in some fly-blown village, Peñeranda de Bracamonte, for petrol and to be stared at by a population of aged beings who had clearly never seen a foreign plated car before – unabashed, hard staring. In all, nothing to talk about at all, until we arrived, five hours and forty minutes after setting off, at the city limits of Segovia where we were greeted by a flash of lightening and a sudden roar of thunder and rain so heavy it rivalled a lake for density. For those who don’t know Segovia then what you need to know is that it is built on a steep hill, of course, with a Disney-like castle at one end (Disney, in fact, modelled their trademark castle on Segovia’s El Alacazar), a wedding-cake of a cathedral in the middle and a magnificent Roman aqueduct at the other end. The roads leading steeply up to this little marvel are all cobbled with granite setts which, when wet, become treacherously slippery, especially when wet after a long dry spell. In other words in precisely the conditions we found ourselves in on arrival. Now I wasn’t concerned about our car – it had four spankingly new tyres and had just been serviced and would have leapt up the greasy roads like an impala being chased by a lion. What did concern us was the bus in front of us which was clearly not at all happy with the state of roads. The back end of the bus, if you’ll pardon the expression, was sliding about sideways like a hippo in mud, clearing a swathe through the traffic. I’ll give the driver his due: he wasn’t put off by the alarming antics of his bus and didn’t seem too concerned for the emotional well being of his few passengers either. Up he went, slippedy-slidey all over the place, fighting for traction at every bend and occasionally sliding backwards. And in case you haven’t got the picture quite clear in your mind, we were directly behind it. Less and less directly so, I have to admit, as I allowed more and more slippage room between us and the beast, though ignoring the missus’s increasingly shrill calls to pull in and let it disappear out of sight. All was well. The bus made one final slide against the old city gate as it waddled through, the road flattened out, and off it sped. The rain stopped and we found our hotel – actually a palace, but enough of that. There was no more rain for the next five days. It had simply been arranged for us to have this elaborate and faintly absurd entrance into town, I’m sure, and I spent the next few days looking forward to meeting the Mayor of Segovia so I could thank him.
The journey back was on even quieter, even hotter roads. At 33C in the shade, it was considerably warmer on the burnt plains as we retraced our steps. We had got back onto the autovia between Salamanca and Cuidad Rodrigo, where elaborately painted cows grace the side of the road, when we saw the first sign to Portugal. 111 kms to the border, it said, and we thought that a very neat number. The next sign said 77 kms and the one after that 55 kms. Interesting coincidence of numbers, we thought, and I mentioned that we ought to have one that said 11 kms and another that said 1 km, just for good measure. And we did. Was that deliberate? we mused. As we crossed the border the overhead auto-estrada signs in Portugal said that the time was 13.31, another oddity, while the temperature was 31. It was beginning to feel a bit creepy. I then remembered that the only bit of toll road we’d used, a tiny stretch on the A6 before Ávila, had cost the weird sum of 1 euro and 11 cents: €1.11. There’s more. We arrived back home five hours and twenty seven minutes after starting the engine in Segovia – I know that because I looked at the clock on the dashboard precisely at the moments of departure and arrival. That’s 333 minutes, in case you haven’t worked it out. And the total distance travelled since we’d left home? 1, 111 kms.
Creepy, I tell you. Damned creepy.